DIARY OF A VISIT TO THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT
Written by George Jager Junior in 1874
Transcribed by George Jager IV, his grandson, in 1976/7
London to Paris
Oct. 2nd
Left London Bridge Stn about 8 pm - Arthur and Fred seeing me off. Went along well until near Newhaven, when a train ahead, being broken down, detained us an hour. But lost no time in consequence, as we still had to wait 2 hrs at Newhaven.
The night was beautiful and fine, and the voyage promised well; but soon we were undeceived, for the steamer rolled heavily all the way, and the rain fell at intervals in torrents. I took early to my sofa, and felt no unpleasant sensation while there; but getting up an hour before landing made me feel squeamish.
Dieppe lies well sheltered in the furthest corner of the bay, and looks pretty from the sea. The train comes up alongside the quay, so you have little trouble in conveying yourself there. The majority of the passengers were evidently English, with some newly married folks mixed in.
Between Paris and Dieppe there is not much to take notice of - women are their rail gate keepers. About Neuchatel and Rouen the country is more pleasant and varied.3rd
Arrived in Paris about 1 o'clock: waited ½ hour for Baggage. Took a cab to Hotel, about 300 yards and discovered that the fare was the same as for 3 miles. Hotel comfortable but not in much style. Went to St Denis to see Nellie. Found the place; but that she has gone to friends until 6. Stayed about St Denis until they returned. Saw the Cathedral, fine old Church. Here I felt my need of French, as no one could speak English and pantomime was our only means of communication.
They have a strange style of serving dinner - everything separate, and all brought to you cut up - no joint being on the table.
4th, Sunday
At 10 o'clock, Nellie, E and A called for me to spend the day; and, as English Service does not commence until eleven, went to two Catholic Churches first, S. Augustines and the Madeleine - splendid buildings, but not much worship in them. The service at the Wesleyan Chapel we went to was thinly attended tho' fine sermon, it was a poor average - only hundred, and then out again. Went into St Germain's - very old Church - has a beautiful painted Madonna.
Stayed thro' a Mass and saw the Host carried round with procession for the 1st time. All bowed or knelt as it passed. When marching up the side aisles a canopy was put over the priest that carried it. Went into the Louvre (not being open on Monday): it is a surprisingly large place, and worthy of many visits. The statuary and pictures are not according to English ideas of modesty - nature being entirely displayed without let or hindrance: but the French ladies are not squeamish in this respect, and examine a Hercules or Bacchus from head to foot with perfect assurance. The place was very full of people, all quiet and well conducted.