Paris to Turin
Same pleasant companions. To-day went to see Tomb of Napoleon; but were too early, and so went to Pantheon - a magnificent solid structure and with tombs of the same - where lie ashes of Voltaire, Rousseau, etc. In one part there is a perfect echo. After dejeuner took a drive in the Bois de Boulogne, and ascended with A. the Arch of Triumph, a massive one indeed, evidently built to last for ever. From the top a glorious view of Paris lying before us like a map, and the atmosphere so clear that every large building and street could be distinguished. The Streets and Boulevards radiate from the Arch in all directions - really a sight to be remembered.
Next to the Exposition of Arts - numerous specimens of tapestry and articles of vertu - nothing remarkable. Through the Champs Elysees - a most delightful walk to my hotel and dinner. Then all in a cab to the Lyons Stn - a pleasant drive. Sorry to leave my dear girls.
In the train en route to Turin. Dined at Modans and grand scenery commences. Very fine view of Alps on both sides of Mt Cenis tunnel (some 7½ miles long - takes 25 m to pass through). On Italy side immense numbers of [chestnut?] trees, on French side vines cover the hillside almost to the top and the houses often in the most inaccessible places (apparently).
Arrived at Turin 7.20 Roman time, which is 42 m. earlier than ours. So I have lost so much of my life, but hope to regain it on my return journey. At Turin had tea, walked the streets with an uncommunicative cockney, went into a Caffe, had coffee, which they serve without milk, but with a large piece of ice in a tumbler and a decanter of water. Hear some singing, though nothing great. People quiet and orderly - some worse for drink. Coffee principal drink at the Caffe - respectable women frequent them. To bed about ten. Large room - comfortable bed.
Had breakfast by 8.30, and called at Hotel de l'Europe for Mr Hermann of Bedford - fellow voyageur from Paris. When he was ready, went out together to see the sights. Took a guide for 5 francs. 1st to Palace. Royal State room very gorgeous, all gold and glitter. Attendants very polite, but expect pay. Gardens poor and untidy. Royal Chapel all of marble, small but very fine.
Priest doing Mass for one communicant - saw her take the wafer. Next, old picture gallery, madonnas and saints predominate, nude figures shown often. Fine work by Rubens, Vandyke, Guido, Fernando, Murillo and one by Raffaelle a gem. Madonna, child, and John Baptist all good. Child's face wonderful triumph of art. Then to Armoury, fine specimens of ancient arms, coats of mail etc. rather better conditions than at Tower of London. Next new factories and museum, only worth seeing to fill up time. Some fine work, but many only copies of masters. Went into Wine Market and sampled some new wine - not first rate - about 5d a quart such as we get for 1/- a bottle.
After lunch, took a drive - 15d the hour, but nothing new to see. Went up a hill where it is said you have one of the finest views in the world - all the Maritime Alps and valley of the Po lying before you. Unfortunately it was rather gloomy and we could not say much for what we saw - and had not time to go again. To the Hotel for dinner, and then for the railway.
Started at 7.30 pm. Slept moderately well.