Viernes Dec 4
Arrived at Buenos Aires about 9 a.m. - were met by Miss R [Rotha] MacIver, Mr Sanderson, whom she is about to marry, and Mr Christopherson - came to Phoenix Hotel where we all had luncheon together, then took the tram on to the Park and back - a little thunder and lightning after which we went to Reconquista about our luggage, my big box being detained by the customs - found Mrs A Walker and Rex here - had a long talk with them after dinner.
Sateado Dec 5
Oh, the many happy 5ths I have had - thank God for the beautiful past. Went out after early coffee to see about luggage & to try and find the "Barbary" - it had been moved, so we did not succeed - did a little shopping - went to the German consul's and found a letter from Bertie - felt terribly lonely - May seedy, temp 101 nearly - very anxious.
Domingo Dec 6
May a little better. Had the Doctor round, who said it was not influenza (for which I am most thankful) - a very long day - we went to church at 8.30 - very sweet and restful - a good sermon, not seeking one's own in anything. May better.
Lunes Dec 7
Dr came - May better. Went about luggage - nothing done - took a tram ride in the cool, and walked in Florida.
Martes Dec 8
May better. Dr came again; gave him a hint not to repeat his visit. Frieda and I went to Hurlingham to see the MacIvers; very glad to do so again. Went to the club; returned early as May was up.
Miercoles Dec 9
Only 5 months - how immeasurably long the time seems ; and have all the rest of my life to live without him - I pray it may not be long - I cannot be wanted here, and Oh how I long to go Home. May up, but weak. Went to the Bank to deposit my cheque - very hot indeed - saw Frieda off to Hurlingham - got my luggage at last, had to pay 15 dollars - May came down to lunch - Mr Gumpert called, also Mr Higgins; but we had gone for a drive - cabs are not dear - a dollar an hour. W. Milligan came to dinner, went into Mrs Oyler's for music.
Jueves Dec 10
Weather completely changed - cool & no sun - can walk with pleasure. This hotel (Phoenix) is most interesting: it is in the San Martin & Cordoba, which runs straight to the sea. On the other side, where our rooms are, just opposite the window is a row of small shops - a grocer at the corner, next a "Talle do Muebleria, Carpinteria do Todas clases", then a small "Loteria Nacional", of which there are several in every street, next to that a cafe & so on. These are one storey & the tops of the entire block are open to our view, as it is also only one storey, the tops of the houses are a strange conglomeration of refuse - dogs - clothes lines, always full - heaps of old bricks, tin kettles and pans & broken pots. Some little outhouses are put up, where I think people live, as there are constant cries and shrieks of children - also many cocks & hens.
Buenos Aires is built in square blocks, like a chess board. The streets are very long, sometimes no.s run up to 5000. In each block there are 100 houses, or numbers, &, as they all start from the same centre it is easy to find your way about. 700 is the same place in each street. Its streets are more or less narrow and high, nearly all intersected by tram lines, which are placed at one side, close to the foot-path, leaving room for two carriages at a pinch. Some of the principal streets are extremely fine, with a row of trees on each side, lined with very handsome buildings. These all begin in a large and handsome square, the Platyo de Mayo. Meconquista is a famous business street, with consuls, the principal shipping offices and all the banks at one end. These latter vie with each other in the grandeur of their buildings.
Viernes Dec 11
Rose at 5.45 - had a walk before breakfast wh. I enjoyed very much - afterwards took the tram for Flores, ¾hr each way. Most of the line was in one street, the Rivadaira, a broad boulevard with trees - planes, sycamores & palms - bordering it on each side. Part of the way the middle of the road is laid out in beds bright with geraniums and eschscholtzias, lobelia and verbena. We saw the most beautiful gardens - masses of bouganvillia and wh. & pink oleanders in big bushes and sometimes the side of a house or a wall covered with masses of plumbago in purest blue flower.
I also saw a red allemander convolvuli - passion flower - many sorts of clematis and jessamine - palms about the same size as those of the Riviera. After lunch we went down to Hurlingham for tea - Frieda rode with the MacIvers - dined with Mr Walker and the Proctors.
Sabado Dec 12
Rose at 5.30, went for a long walk - mercifully fresh, but hot in the sun. A train ride took us to the Parque, where we had tea & a walk to the River Plate - such weeping willows I never saw, their long graceful branches of a fresh young green gently moved by the breeze, forming a mass of wavey green lights & shades wh. I have never seen equalled. The road leading to the river has a double avenue of orate palms about 25 to 30 ft high. We went up on the roof after dinner & saw the Southern Cross - which is much brighter here - Orion also looked like lamps in the deep blue of the sky. The city is a long and narrow one much larger than I had thought.
Domingo Dec 13
Another week has flown away & yet it seems a long time since we left the "Barbary". Went to church with Mr & Mrs Ted MacIver - Dorothy has a head ache, poor child - they came for lunch, also Mrs Milligan and Mrs R MacIver. After they had gone, Ted and all of us went to see the Cathedral, & finding it shut I walked into the cloisters, wh. were open, &, seeing a priest asked if we could go in. It is very florid and tawdry. One beautiful idea is that the Light of the World is represented in a small round window over the high altar, through wh. the principal light comes. Afterwards we went in the Park. Church in the evening - very sleepy, did not enjoy it much.
Mon Dec 14
We went to the Tigne with the MacIvers and Capt. Gordon. Went up the river in a steam launch & dined afterwards - our last day together. Packed.