Oct 17th

Steamer, and Cook's party, arrived. Went on board about six, returned to Hotel, and, with Weaver and Mr Glover, met the party at station to go to Ephesus and ?Asayluk about 12 oclock. Went at once to Temple of Diana, or site of same - see an enormous hole about 15 ft deep with a few pieces of stone and a few broken columns and trace of foundation stones. Here once stood the great temple, now a miserable hole growing a few melons. The excavation is recent: the temple being quite unknown till 1871. The finest specimens are now in the British Museum. We went to see cave of the Seven Sleepers - a hole into which about 7 of us can just get. Close by, there is an ancient Church. The cave is halfway up the hill ... .

I here left the party and went on the hill above and enjoyed the prospect very much. A large plain, on all sides but one surrounded by wild mountains and the sea. Ephesus lying close by the hill and nearly surrounded it. The temple lies some distance off and appears to lie outside the towns. Having enjoyed my solitude ... and lunch on the hill, came down on opposite side to see the ruins. Saw the Stadium and Gymnasium; but was afraid I had not time and missed inspecting closely many of the ruins. Went back to the Rly Station. Party had not returned, so went to see a large ruined mosque, formerly a Church, and there met the party. This great town is now a marsh, and in wet weather considered very unhealthy. When we were there it was delightfully fine and dry, and no one has taken harm. The air was very clear and exhilarating; but the sun was hot.

Came back to Smyrna in good time (about 50 miles distance) and enjoyed my dinner, and felt ourselves regular swells as band came to the door, and discoursed very fairly, while we licked our palates and distended our stomachs. The gentleman on my right was Rev. F. Glover, father of Sir John, of Ashanti war renown. He was very agreeable, and glad to tell me all about the Pyramid, which he makes out to be revelation from God to prove by its weight, measure and inclines the same truths as are taught by the Bible. He took me to his room and tried to initiate me into it all. He had all kinds of views and books on the subject. It is evidently his hobby, and he rides it pretty hard.


Another Sunday: but only two weeks from England. It looks like 2 months - so much variety, I suppose. After breakfast, came on board here, and have occupied myself with writing up since the 14th.

Our party consists of 9 or 10 Americans, and as many English - four ladies, 2 or 3 of them unmarried; but not very prepossessing in appearance. The passengers are very miscellaneous - Turkish men, women and children with black nurses - Greeks, Armenians and dancing dervishes. Can't say how I shall like the party yet. There are several parsons and a Professor or two. Day closed without any religious service - 5 ministers on board; but (making no arrangement) nothing done! Started from Smyrna about 12 oclock, and will soon be on the same course as St Paul took when coming from Corinth to Jerusalem.

Go to Next Chapter