Jan 16-24: Las Cuevas, Juncal and last days in Inca
Sat 26 Jan
Rose at 5.30. Took train to Las Cuevas, about 10 ms up the valley & 1000 ft higher, where we found mules & waggonettes with 4 horses abreast. May, Frieda & Ted went on mules, I drove with a Mr & Mrs Chubb whom we were introduced to by Mr Higgins (who arr. last night) - very pleasant people. We mounted up by a succession of zig-zags & at each turn the views grew grander & grander & more imposing. The height of the pass - called La Cumbre - is about 15,000 ft.
The coach road was only opening two days ago: in one place a cutting is made through the snow wh. towers above one. One of our horses was very frightened - not a pleasant sensation at such a height & on the edge of such a precipice. At the top we saw the place where they are going to put the statue (8 metres high and of bronze) of our Lord. It is to be the boundary line of Argentine and Chile - will be most imposing.
The workmen are busy there now & I believe the statue itself has arrived in sections. There are huge packing cases lying about at Los Cuevas.
At once a magnificent panorama spreads before us - peak on peak - snow-capped - glaciers - precipices - and, reaching far down on the Chile side a vista of the loveliest colouring in such tender shades of blues, purples, pinks, and mauves as one can hardly imagine, and, beyond all, a tiny peep of the blue Pacific more than 100 ms away. I have never seen such a view & it will be a treasure in my storehouse of memories for the rest of one's days. Can heaven be more beautiful? The descent is made in the same way by steep zig zags - something like that (two scribbles).
It is divided by two wide valleys into three separate descents, taking two hours & ½ to gallop down. These valleys are evidently the empty basins of former lagoonas. We passed one which has the most wonderful colouring - sometimes a vivid green, a deep blue, purple, & even pink & red - we saw it a very bright electric green & two days after, on our return, there might have been no water there - so colourless was it! The driving of 4 horses along is quite a feat of itself; the way they manipulate the curves is marvellous - the off horse clings to the others or it must fall over. They are frightened & very cautious. Coming back we had an instance of their nervousness. We had passed through the snow passage, when the one who had shied violently at it the first time, fell down (dying as we thought). As it seemed impossible to pass it without the wheels going over it we walked on. About 10 mins. after we were surprised and relieved to be overtaken by the four horses again. The contrast in the man's faces to when we left him was pitiable. The animal had fainted from fright & the sudden cold in the wall of snow. We reached Juncal (pro. Huncal) at 12, the mules about ¾ hr later. We stayed there until Monday morning.
Sun Jan 17
After coffee, wh. we had in a long old-world sort of room, having a bar at one end & a door into the road & at the other end one into the yard, where the cocks, hens, pigeons, cats & dogs wandered at their sweet will. Mr & Mrs Hespa are French, and their cooking a treat after the clumsy slipshod way the food is prepared at the Inca.
We walked a mile or two down the valley, picking the loveliest flowers which grow in wild profusion amongst the stones and gravel - a beautiful pink lily, about the size of a gladioli or iris was the most common, also a large bright red flower rather like an orchid - many varieties of yellow. We only wanted ferns to make the most exquisite bouquet you can imagine. We brought a large bunch back which lasted for a week.
Mon Jan 18
Were awakened at 3 a.m. & on the road at 4 o'clock; it was a mysterious start, in the dark, just before the dawn. Towering cliffs of rock all around us - the high peak of the Juncal, 20,000 ft high, seems to shut in the whole valley. Very soon, as we mounted the steep ascent, the sky just paled and then flushed, tipping the high snow peaks with "the roseate hues of early dawn" - how beautiful it was, & how unwilling it made one to come back into the noisy bustling world. It took four hours to climb to the top. I got out and walked once; but had such a pain in my chest I quickly gave it up (the only touch of "poona" I have felt). The views were sublime the whole way. We were favoured with a cloudless sky and no wind, a most unusual advantage here where it almost invariably blows. We got back here at 11.30 and very much enjoyed our breakfast, our first one having been at 3.30!
Tues Jan 19
Sketched the Inca hut & station. Had a walk with May - Frieda & Ted rode - we had a tea picnic down to the Penitentes, some driving, others riding.
Wed Jan 20
Started at 8.30 & walked up the Cerro Panta & along the tops of the mountains - by the side of precipices & wild gorges until we came to the Aroya Panta high up amongst the mts. Then we crossed, walking on & on until the path became too difficult to go further. We then rturned to the river, where we had lunch, returning to the hotel about 4.30, first having a dip in "Venus".
Thu Jan 21
Ted left us. May & Frieda rode, I walked to the Lagoona with Dr & Mrs Cotton.
Fri Jan 22
Finished my sketch of "Inca" & station, had tea with Mrs Pilgrim & Misses Corbett. Then rode for two hours, wh. I enjoyed very much. Had excellent music in the evening.
Sat Jan 23
Poor little Frieda ill with a chill (I hope); put her to bed & sat upstairs all day - we were to have left for B.A. - it is a mercy we have not started.
Sun Jan 24
She is still in bed with a temperature of 102 - must just leave it & try not to be anxious. Went for a short walk with Dr & Mrs Cotton.