Penzance to St Mawes
August 16 to 24 2012
Day 1 to Rosario, The Square, Marazion TR17 0BH
I travelled down by train to Penzance in the morning and walked with my pack along the sea wall the two miles to Marazion. It was pretty windy and started to rain as I set off. As you near the town there is the option of walking on the beach, which I chose, unaware that towards the end there is a stream. Someone more agile than me without a backpack could have leapt it, but I retreated back to the car park.
Rosario was friendly but quite basic. I had hoped to cross to St Michael's Mount, but the rough sea meant the ferries were not in operation.
Day 2 to Wellmore End Cottage, Porthleven TR13 9JP
As I set off the rain was coming down hard and the wind blowing strongly, and Mike at Rosario suggested I get a lift with Luggage Transfers. But this was my first proper walk on the Path for 15 months and I was really looking forward to it. The rain did ease off every now and then, particularly in the afternoon, the route was not too taxing, the scenery was exciting and to be honest I really enjoyed myself.
Generally the route wasn't challenging. I went wrong at one point (Prussia cove?) because (as happened several times) there were two arrows on a way marker. I hadn't yet grasped that the official path was adjacent to the acorn. On this occasion I went down a path onto a beach. There was a clear track out of the other side, but to get to it I had to climb over some rather large boulders. When I got onto the path and climbed up to cliff level, the only way out was to climb over a large locked gate, which I did with some difficulty.
The rain had stopped by the time I reached Porthleven, and I had a very warm welcome from Mrs Rogers who had been very concerned for my welfare. I showered and changed and went for a really good meal at the Blue Haze where I watched the waves spectacularly crashing over the harbour wall.
Day 3 to The Caerthillion, The Lizard TR12 7NQ
The weather outlook was rather kinder the next morning. There was a bit of drizzle early on, and a mist hung around for most of the day. This came and went, sometimes quite spectacularly. Headlands would emerge like mysterious islands, and on one occasion as I approached a cove from a high cliff I could see the other side, but not the water in the cove. Once again the route was not too challenging though there were one or two stiff climbs, preceded by fairly treacherous descents.
Loe Bar early on is quite unusual, where there is a fresh water lake just behind a long sandy beach. And I really enjoyed visiting Gunwalloe Church which is in an isolated place tucked behind a cliff. It does not just have its own special history but appears to be an active church with services held every Sunday afternoon at 3 pm. Shortly after that is Poldhu Cove after which you climb to the Marconi Centre and the monument that marks the place where Marconi made the first ever transatlantic radio transmission. Because the Lizard Peninsula sticks out to the south, there is no land due west until you come to America. Until I read about it there, I hadn't realised how much effort went into this venture. Marconi was a brave man to invest so much time and money into something that very few others believed was possible, and we have all benefited ever since.
After this comes Mullion Cove, and the path then climbs to the cliff top and continues past several picturesque and often deserted coves. Kynance is particularly special but also popular. There is only a small beach consisting mainly of large boulders, but there were plenty of holidaymakers there, and I had to climb over several bodies to get across to the exit path. From there it is not too far to The Lizard, where I saw a seal. The sun came out occasionally during the afternoon, more than I realised, as I was surprised to find that evening that I had caught the sun. I was warmly welcomed by Austin at The Caerthillion, and had a good meal at the Regency Cafê. It is a bit off-putting as you enter, seeing rows of tables with people eating away, but they serve a wide variety of good food and are very friendly (staff and customers).
Day 4 to Fernleigh, Chymbloth Way, Coverack TR12 6TB
From the breakfast table the sight was mist and drizzle. This put a downer on the start of the day's walking but it had cleared within a couple of hours, and by lunch time I was able for the first time to pack away my anorak. The guidebook states that because this section of the path is sheltered from the south-westerly winds it has a lush, well-vegetated character. Unfortunately most of the vegetation seemed to be alongside or hanging over the path which made it very damp in places.
The path along this section is generally quite straightforward with a few steepish climbs, but nothing too strenuous until you approach Coverack. Towards Chynalls Point there is a choice of paths. I chose the inland route which went past a sculpture park that looked interesting, but I couldn't find anything to explain its theme and whether it was the work of a single artist. [I read in the Autumn 2022 edition of Trailblazing that it is in fact the Terence Coventry Sculpture Park.] The book described the alternate route as slippery in wet weather, which I did not fancy. Another person tried it on the same day and found it particularly treacherous.
Normally on a Sunday I try to choose a shorter walk so that I can fit in a church service, but it didn't look possible on this occasion. So I was particularly pleased as I came into Coverack to hear hymn singing and discover an open air service taking place in the harbour. There were plenty of people taking part, with the hymns accompanied by a well amplified band, so that the whole place could join in. I then made my way to Fernleigh where I received a warm welcome and a much needed pot of tea. After the high winds of previous days and the morning's drizzle, it was particularly pleasant that evening to be eating fish and chips sitting in the harbour with scarcely a breath of wind.
Day 5 to Landrivick Lawns, Helford TR12 6HX
This was the day of getting lost, but also the discovery of a new cafê. I hoped to be able to buy my lunch in Coverack before setting off, but though there were several shops open, none sold sandwiches.
Not long after leaving the village there was a section described as being "sometimes boggy". Not surprisingly after all the summer's rain it was extremely so. I just about avoided slipping over, and on one occasion I only just managed to pull my foot up before the mud went over the top of my boot. Once that was out of the way and Dean Quarry was passed, the route headed inland to avoid quarry workings. It was slightly confusing as there were two footpaths signposted side by side, and I chose correctly the left hand one. The other would be more logical, but I suspect would have brought you back to the same point. When it reached the hamlet of Rosenithon I must have missed a turning as I went some distance along a road, though I found myself eventually back on the correct route. For the next mile or so inland I managed to follow the route I was meant to, and on the approach to Porthallow I passed a cafê called the Fat Apple which had only opened that month. There I was not just able to buy a freshly made bacon roll and a drink at a very reasonable price, but also had my water bottle filled. The proprietess was certainly going out of her way to make the venture succeed. Porthallow is the half way point of the whole Coastal Path, but I missed the sign.
On the next section towards Nare Point the path crosses fields alongside the coast. I tended to stick to the left of the field as some of the paths to the right seemed to be going nowhere. Unfortunately I managed to miss out a chunk, including the headland itself. However I made up for it later! At Gillan Creek there is a ferry that operates at high tide, but that was a long way off. The sign also said stepping stones could be used at low tide, but I didn't fancy slipping off them and falling in the river. So I chose instead to do the inland route - an extra 2 miles or so.
The route initially went through a farm. After following a track it entered a field that I think you were meant to cross diagonally. However there was corn on the cob growing so that was not possible and it meant going round the edge. The gate that you were meant to exit by had an electric fence across it. I assumed wrongly that that was not the correct route and retraced my steps eventually leaving by a different gate through a farmyard. I headed in the general direction and eventually came to a sign indicating that I should after all have gone through that field. The problems encountered there were, however, made up for by the rest of that detour after Carne, along a delightful road down the far side of the creek.
I eventually reached St Anthony Church where the ferry would have landed me, only to get lost again immediately after, and this time I don't think my carelessness was to blame. There was a clear sign saying Coast Path pointing towards a gate into a field with cows in. There was no indication on the gate as to which direction was the exit, but I followed what looked like a track. This took me through a gate into another field, but there was no obvious exit. I retraced my steps back to the first gate and to the original sign to see if I had missed a sign but there was nothing. So the only option was a rather boring 3 mile walk along a road.
When I reached Helford I had to find Landrivick Lawns. I knew it was out of the village but I was not sure how far away it was. I set off in the direction I thought it was along a path that got muddier and muddier, but gave up and made my way back to the village. I tried to call the landlady, but I couldn't get a signal on my phone. I asked several people but nobody had heard of it. When I mentioned that it was on the road to Kestle, as I understood, somebody pointed me back along the same muddy path saying I needed eventually to turn right. I followed his instructions, and after a mile and a half I came to Kestle. Luckily I was now able to get a signal on my phone and got through. I asked for directions but she could not work out where I was, so she came out to look for me in her car. Once she found me it was quite a drive. I was staying in a self-contained unit, and luckily there was a high pressure hose right outside the door, and I was able to remove a significant portion of the mud on my boots. When I looked at the map to find out where we actually were, I was slightly embarrassed to discover that the place was actually marked on it.
Day 6 to Dolvean House, 50 Melvill Road, Falmouth TR11 4DQ
When I got up and tried to get my breakfast I discovered that the fridge setting was too high, and the milk had frozen, so the meal wasn't quite as planned. Eventually I got myself organised and set off on the two mile walk back to Helford, which included a mile or so of yesterday's boring section. As the next stage did not look too demanding, I decided to do part of the route I had missed out, so I walked for a mile or so back up the estuary - wooded and quiet. I then turned back to Helford and made my way to the ferry. It is on the far western end of the village - no apparent signs to it. The ferry itself is just a small boat that probably holds 14 or 15 maximum. I shared it with a couple with two young children and was pleased to see the boy wearing a Leicester City T-shirt. They were suprised to meet another supporter so far from 'home'.
The walk from there to Falmouth is very pleasant and not at all demanding. It started to rain quite heavily at one point, but as I was passing through a wood with plenty of canopy cover I decided to stop and have my lunch, which saved me having to put on my anorak. Once that was cleared the sun shone brightly. Rosemullion Head gives a fine view of the Helford Estuary and the approaches to Falmouth Harbour. Maenport and Swanpool were both popular beaches, but then as I came round Swanpool Point, the view of Falmouth was dominated by the sad sight of the remains of the Falmouth Bay Hotel which had been destroyed by fire earlier in the year.
I found Dolvean House OK, which is on the main road out of Falmouth, and Sean, my host for the next 3 nights, greeted me warmly with a pot of tea.
Day 7 Pendennis Point
I decided to have an easy day with a boat trip. First I walked round Pendennis Point which was really the concluding part of the section I had done the previous day. There are some fascinating fortifications dating back to the 16th century. There was some filming going on, presumably of a period drama. I then caught a ferry advertised as going to Truro. However when it reached Malpas we were told we needed to get on a bus to complete the journey, as it was not high tide. At Truro it was low tide and there only seemed a foot or so of water in the river. Though the city is not the most interesting of places, the river trip is well worthwhile.
Day 8 to St Mawes
The official coastal path route involves taking the ferry from Falmouth to St Mawes, followed by another from there to Place. The first has frequent sailings throughout the year, but the second does not operate between November and Easter. So the guidebook includes a walk for when it is out of action, and I chose to do that for my final day.
From St Mawes it heads up the Fal estuary along a very pleasant path. This leads to the church of St Just in Roseland, which is not just a simple but attractive church, but is set in what is as much garden as churchyard. A Victorian vicar arranged for the grounds to be laid out very attractively with quite exotic shrubbery, and they still employ a full time gardener to maintain it. Shortly after the church, the guidebook tells you to follow the path signed St Just Lane. However while there are signs indicating the path divides there is no such wording. So I continued along the bank of the estuary for another mile until I realised I must be wrong. So I turned back and took the alternative route, only to see the aforementioned sign after about 100 yards. This took me to a road.
I went wrong again very soon, but this time it was certainly my own fault. It said to ignore the first path on the right, but it looked to me the way to go so I assumed I had missed the one I was meant to ignore. I had to cross a number of fields and end up on a main road, which I did. But when I turned right I realised from the map that I was just heading back to St Mawes, so I turned left and eventually got back to where I should have been. There was then more crossing of fields and tracks until the road into Gerrans. After that there is a long track past a farm, reaching a road. Shortly after that there is a signed path to Place. This takes you through woodland eventually coming out on the Percuil estuary. This track goes on for some time, and when you think you are approaching your destination you then realise that what you can see is actually on the other side of the river. Then when you are beginning to wonder where on earth you are heading for, the ferry point suddenly appears in the middle of nowhere. We got about 12 into the boat and then picked up a lady from a dinghy that was moored in the estuary. Near St Mawes we passed another with a family of four waiting to be picked up, but the ferryman told them there was no room, but he would come straight back and pick them up. On the crossing back to Falmouth the ferry made a diversion past Black Rock as there was a seal sunning himself on the rock.